Alpha Hydroxy Acids
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA’s) have become some of the most popular ingredients in modern skin care products. Acting primarily as exfoliants, these acids have most recently come into the limelight for their anti-aging properties, although a few have also become popular in acne treatments.
Alpha hydroxy acids are derived from milk and fruit sugars. As exfoliants, AHA’s cause the top layer of your dead skin cells to peel away. Because most people to not shed their dead skin cells evenly, these cells can build up in certain areas, leading to clogged pores and uneven pigmentation. AHA’s can help to prevent this from occurring by evenly causing exfoliation over the applied area. Alpha hydroxy acids can also help firm up the skin and preserve elasticity by stimulating the production of collagen and elastin. For acne sufferers, deep-penetrating AHA’s such as glycolic acid can get beneath the surface to unclog pores where acne lesions are trapped.
For both those seeking younger-looking skin and acne relief, alpha hydroxy acids are a good recourse in mild cases. Enhanced exfoliation prepares the way for new cell growth, clearing away the unsightly layer of dry and cracked dead cells. This, combined with the benefits of more firm and elastic skin, can help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. While exfoliation can happen rapidly, users should keep in mind that it can take months to see the visible affects of AHA’s other skin-firming properties.
Minor acne breakouts can also be dealt with by the use of AHA’s, particularly in cases where small acne pustules form near the surface of your skin. For those who suffer from deeper acne lesions that form farther below the skin level, AHA’s may not help, since even with your pores unclogged, large pustules that form rapidly cannot fit out the narrow passageway of your pores (and thus remain trapped in the socket of your sebaceous glands). To be effective, AHA treatment must penetrate the area before the bacteria hardens within your glands.
Alpha hydroxy acids are generally used in concentrations of 5% to 8%, and at a pH of 3 to 4. It’s generally best to start with a lighter (and less frequent) application and then gradually increase after your skin adjusts to the strength of the acid. Initially, many users experience dry and irritated skin when using AHA’s. This is natural, as the acid is basically burning away the top layer of your skin. Users may or may not find the irritation to decrease over time. In the case of continued irritation, I would highly recommend discontinuing the treatment, as dried-out skin is even more prone to the very problems AHA is intended to correct. Also, be aware that the use of AHA’s will increase your skin’s sun sensitivity (as much as 50% with higher concentrations). Since sun exposure is the leading cause of fine lines and wrinkles, using alpha hydroxy acids and then spending time outdoors will actually do more harm than good to your skin. Take into account both the positive and negative effects of alpha hydroxy acids, and time your use of them accordingly.
